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Seahawk II (Intex) motor mount

Printed from: Sailor's Forum
Topic URL: http://www.catalina25-250.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=6830
Printed on: 03/07/2005

Topic:


Topic author: RichardG
Subject: Seahawk II (Intex) motor mount
Posted on: 06/10/2004 15:15:05
Message:

Someone previously asked for pictures of my motor mount in a recent thread (link). Well, here's a couple --





Regarding the issue of whether you can use an electric trolling motor on a small dinghy like this, I wonder if one of those smaller and lighter 12v motorcycle or lawnmower batteries would work -- the capacity wouldn't be great, but you wouldn't need a lot if all you are doing is going back and forth from the dinghy dock/beach (and charge it back up after you get back to a land-based charging source).

Replies:


Reply author: barmstro
Replied on: 06/14/2004 02:23:55
Message:

Looks like a very simple motor mount. Did you make it? and if so how? If not where did you get it? I recently purchased the same raft and that looks like it would be a great addtion..
Thanks


Reply author: RichardG
Replied on: 06/14/2004 12:20:50
Message:

Bob:

The following was copied from a post in the above "link":

Last years model (Seahawk 400?) came with already-attached mounting points for a motor mount. The mount was available for purchase from some web vendors (approx. $50). Jim made his own, and gave me a lot of help on mine. The Seahawk II, however, does not come with the motor mount points, so I did it a little different.

First, I removed the all-around grab line from attachment point on the stern, so now it goes from stern quarter (bowline), around to the bow, back to the other stern quarter (another bowline). I opened the eyes on three 1/4" eyebolts (5" long, I think) and then closed the eye of one of them on the above grab line attachment. I closed the eyes of the other two on each end of the stern handle. My mounting board is 3/4" plywood, through which I drilled 3 holes for the eyebolts so that the lower ones (attached to the handle) angle a bit upward and the upper one angles a bit downward. I got a piece of 1 1/2" closed-cell foam, and doubled it (so it's 3" thick) to put between the stern and the board. I drilled three holes through the foam for the eyebolts. You can go to a pool supply store for the foam -- they sell rectangular 1 1/2" x approx. 5" closed-cell long, foam swimming "noodles" for about $7 (basically fancy swim noodles). I used locknuts on the ends of the eyebolts to compress the foam between the stern and the board. Per Jim's advice, I took 2 pieces of 1" ID Sch 40 PVC pipe about 3' long, glued on two 90 deg. elbows, and about 5" PVC pipe to the other ends of the elbows. The short piece below the elbows go into the fishing rod holders on the boat. The other ends of these "brackets" are screwed into the top, outside edge of the mounting board -- push the top of the board a little towards the stern when you do this so that board is more stable when you set the screws. The PVC tubes are secured into the fishing rod holders by drilling horizontal holes all the way through the rod holders and PVC -- these can accept appropriate screws/wing nuts. The key is locating the top of the board high enough so that the knobs holding the motor to the board can't puncture the stern, but not too high so that the prop is sufficiently burried in the water, and not too far back that the weight of the engine is put further aft than necessary.

Got it? Clear as mud! Hope this helps.

I already had the foam, PVC and board laying around, so the total cost of the project was around $5. I used regular non-stainless hardware, so I'll have to watch out for corrosion.


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